Aluminum Tanks

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Major System Category: Fuel System
Task: Install Aluminum Tanks
Parts: Aluminum Tanks
Prerequisite Tasks: Rear Tunnel Aluminum
Additional Costs: $1200
Time Requirement: 3 hours
Date Started: October 6, 2012
Date Completed: October 6, 2012
Sometime in mid-August, I started working on the Corvette tank modifications. The further I progressed on this task, the more obvious it became that there was no way this was a good idea. First The driver's side tank becomes the passenger, then the manual instructs that holes be drilling into the bottom of both tanks. The specified hole turns out to be larger than the supplied AN fittings. Plus, I realized I had just created the weak link in a fuel system running at 50 PSI.

Quick Racing Products aluminum tanks.

I test mounted the Corvette tanks, raised the lift and read further in the build manual. Based on my understanding, the plan was to run a fuel line between the tanks right in front of the engine. Indeed, this is something that needs to happen, but seemed really close to where the accessories are going to be spinning. I stood there under the car looking from the manual to the car, and slowly it began to penetrate my rather thick skull, why one poster on the FF forums said the Quick Racing Products tanks are a must have.

Black silicone applied to the 2x4 blocks.

There are enough threads from people who have had fuel tank leak issues. Remember, my chassis is number 402. According to the Stewart Transport driver, he is delivering approximately 10 GTMs per year. Only half of these (Gen I and II) are complete. So if a significant number in that population write about fuel leak or heat problems, I need to listen. To balance this, there are GTM owners that have followed the build manual recommendations and do not have leaks. Then there was the guy who went that route, and after some 5 or 6k miles, his tanks started leaking. He has had to tear half the car apart to fix this problem (not a happy camper).

Camper mount tape applied to the chassis members that contact the fuel tanks.  The wood blocks also have tape applied and sit inside the rear quarter pan behind the fire wall. Orientation: Looking towards the rear of the vehicle where the fuel tanks reside from the driver's cockpit.

So I sat down with the budget spreadsheet. Aluminum tanks and the corresponding fuel pumps were not in the budget. I pushed back the ISIS power purchase (maybe into 2013), bit the bullet and ordered the tanks and fuel pumps and all the plumbing needed to make it work. I decided the a fuel leak in an area where fumes can accumulate next to a hot engine in a high performance sports car is not a good thing. Yes, I am spending a lot of time building this car (and having a blast doing it), but I also want to spend some time driving her when she's finished.

This is the cut out in the tunnel wall. I took the measurements from the template and ran lines. Then I test mounted the  fuel tanks, and figured where I needed a tad more room. Finally, I sanded and deburred the openings. Orientation: Facing rear tunnel from driver's cockpit.

Ron and Ted are the two guys on the other end of the phone when you talk or write to Quick Racing Products. I've never put a fuel system in before. Both of them were willing to take the time to answer my questions. They also knew what I needed when I gave them the engine specs. While this isn't a turn key, drop in solution, I feel better about not drilling holes into perfectly good fuel tanks.

Fuel tanks installed. The driver's side tank is closest. It is a bit harder to make out  the passenger side  tank. I applied camper mount tape to the back of the tank as well. This is where the fire wall makes contact with the fuel tanks.

The installation process is straight forward.

1. Install the floor plates (thank goodness for lift!)
2. Cut 4 1 foot sections of 2 x 4. (My buddy Vern cut me a 2 x 4 a couple of weeks ago, who knew that half of it would end up inside the car!)    
3. Apply black silicon to the underside of the wood. The tanks sit on top of the wood.
4. Apply camper mount tape to the contact points (on the chassis) where the tanks make contact.
5. Cut out a section (per the supplied template) in the tunnel wall. (This part of the tunnel was already installed. Be careful not to cut through a brake or clutch line.)

This is the passenger side tank fitting for the cross over pipe that runs between tanks. This is a good 12 inches further back into the tunnel and away from the engine.

I test mounted the new tanks a couple times. Everything seems to fit okay. I'm just waiting on the fuel pump and related supplies to show up next.

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